Tuscany - Pisa, Firenze and local stuff

Welcome back. If you missed instalment one - Roma and Pompeii - just scroll down a few pages.

Monday 7th June

After the hustle and bustle of the week in Rome we couldn’t fault yesterday’s rest day and so decided to back it up with another relaxing day before tackling a couple of big touristy days in Pisa and Firenze (Florence).

After a sleep in and lazy morning at the Casa, our first excursion wasn’t until mid afternoon when we decided it was pretty warm and time to visit the local public pool in San Casciano. Vicky kindly offered to lead us there to make sure we didn’t get lost. In fact we could have found it quite easily but were very grateful to have Vicky there when we went in. Apparently in public pools here everyone needs to wear a swimming cap, apparently for hygiene purposes – Liz had her green RPS Mathew house cap but of course Kath and I were capless. Not only was Vicky able to explain this to us but she must have softened up the attendant to be kind to the ignorant Aussie tourists and lend us caps rather than forcing us to buy them. The admission price of $9 each was already on the steep side compared to the $5.50 at Willoughby Aquatic Centre.
So the cap was novelty number one, but novelty number two was probably more amusing – before going from the change rooms to the pool everyone has to have a shower. Not trusting people to heed this rule it is made mandatory as the only way out of the change rooms is via a walkway with an automatic shower – think of walking through a car wash (or a sheep dip?) Not a problem if it is just you walking through, but not so convenient if you want to take a bag with you. It wasn’t too bad for me as the men’s shower heads were angled in such a way that I could hold my bag out to the side and it only suffered a light overspray. The girls didn’t have the same luxury as their shower was wall to wall. After much pondering and to the amusement of a few locals we decided on a plan for Kath to throw her bag through the shower for me to catch on the other side. A couple of false starts later Kath let go of the bag which still set off the hyperactive sensor but didn’t have a chance to drench the bag. Kath got wet though! Having said that, if the shower is designed to be a hygiene initiative, it makes bugger all difference as there is no soap and no one is actually going to stand there long enough to have a decent shower. I couldn’t help but question the value of these hygiene initiatives which would have been rendered pointless by the first kid of the day who decided to have a pee in the pool rather than going to the change room! A few “don’t pee in the pool” signs would be far more cost effective. Further reflection on the hygiene topic took me back to Rome and the lack of HACCP food hygiene standards in the food outlets – staff using bare hands to make up salads, whilst taking cash, whilst talking on the phone, whilst going outside for a smoke – or dogs walking through restaurants. Personally I don’t have too much of a problem with any of the above as I think we try to sanitize the world too much anyway but I thought it amusing in the context of swimming caps and sheep dip showers. Anyway after all of that, the pool was great – it was open air but nicely warmed and there were lounges on which to sunbathe and Kath looked pretty hot in a bathing cap! (The pictures will go to the highest bidder).

We decided on dinner at La Cantinetta del Nonno (on Vicky’s recommendation) in Via IV Novembre (4th November – my birthday). Dinner starts later over here with the “proper” restaurants opening from 8pm so no early nights for the kids unless you go to the pizzeria. I thought I’d go local and chose pig’s head sausage with beans for primi and osso bucco for secondi. (Mum, you would have loved it but you would have been torn as there was also tripe on the menu!). Kath had a very nice veal cutlet after her prosciutto entree. A little trap for the tourists was the expectation of what “beans” would be - we naturally thought green beans and so ordered more for a main course side dish. They were actually the beans that would go into baked beans so needless to say we enjoyed much roughage that night! Liz enjoyed her sausages and loved dessert – crème caramel (start cooking nanny) and some of Kath’s chocolate cake.

In bed by 10.30pm to get ready for our big excursion tomorrow to Pisa.

Tuesday 8th June

The 1 ¼ hour journey to Pisa was fairly uneventful thanks to Jane and we quickly found a parking station just outside the old city wall north of the Piazza del Duomo. Jane’s Italian pronunciation is pretty good most of the time and in some cases better than her attempts at street names in Roseville.

A short walk to the Campo dei Miracoli (Field of Miracles) and the Leaning Tower of Pisa leans in front of us. Initial impression is that it is not as big as expected but this could be partly due to it being located near the large Duomo (cathedral). It does however have a very noticeable lean! The primary theory for the lean is that the ground underneath is too unstable and sandy to hold the weight of all the marble (14,443 tonnes). Given that much of the local area is developed on reclaimed land where the Arno and Auser rivers emptied into the sea it is feasible that this wasn’t the best place to build such a heavy structure without getting the foundations right. It has been stabilised by excavating under the high side and attaching lead counterweights to get it back in balance. All very reassuring as we contemplated our 11.40am booked climb up the 293 steps, 55m to the summit.

With an hour or so to kill Liz and I took advantage of the 30c public toilets. Later in the day Kath declared it money well spent for the best facilities experienced so far. There was also time for several photos of the Tower (including the one of Liz managing to accomplish the customary superhuman feat of holding up the Leaning Tower on her own!), the Duomo and the Baptistry as well as some preliminary souvenir browsing.

At our allotted time we checked our bags in at the locker room and headed for the Tower. Kath’s initial comment was that it didn’t look as though it was on such a lean as the last time she saw it. I politely pointed out that the last time she was here was in the 1980s, she was on a Contiki bus trip and no doubt after a big night out the night before, everything probably looked as though it had a lean on it - silence. Back to real time, on the climb up the lean is quite noticeable as you walk on the “leaning” side and have to consciously straighten yourself. The other noticeable feature is how well-worn the marble steps are after centuries and tens of thousands of people climbing them. The first stage you get out of the stairwell is at the bell level where the working bells vary in size (and loudness as we were later to find out) and decoration. Unfortunately there is netting all around the tower which makes taking decent photographs impossible. I initially assumed this was for safety reasons (to stop the “jumpers” perhaps) but later realised this not to be the case as the highest level, which is a parapet above the bells, only has a metal railing fence around it to just above waist height – real vertigo inducing when you lean over to take photos and remember the whole thing is already leaning over 4m off centre. The parapet is also open in the middle so you can see down to the bells just below. This means that for those challenged by heights there is no solid central wall to lean back against – needless to say Kath decided to stay on the lower level and study the bells. The view down onto the Duomo was excellent, as was the panorama over Pisa (including the nearby football ground) to the hills in the distance. As we were to find out later, much of Pisa looks far more attractive from up high than it does at ground level. Just as we are about to descend a taped message in several languages warns that the bells are about to ring. The warning was not sufficient for everyone as several people still jumped. Out of interest, the safety nets were to screen off access to the restoration work that was taking place on the outside of the tower just below the bell level.

Back on terra firma we entered the Duomo which was built between 1063 and the end of the 12th century – nothing like a long infrastructure project to keep the stonemasons in business. The Duomo is stunning both from the outside, with its gleaming white marble and massive entrance doors, and on the inside with fancily gilded ceilings and frescos inside the dome and an amazing intricately carved marble pulpit which took four years to craft. After spending an hour or so marvelling at the interior we lit a couple of candles and again remembered family and friends past and present. I’m beginning to have concerns that all of this candle lighting will be having an impact on greenhouse gasses and global warming.

Outside it was time for lunch at a local restaurant a few hundred metres (and therefore less expensive) from the Campo dei Miracoli before heading off to find what sounded like an interesting attraction away from the main sights – the Cantiere delle Navi Antiche di Pisa – otherwise known as a museum of recently excavated ancient Roman galleys that were preserved for centuries in mud. It was quite a hike in the heat with a very rough map of the area, past the university and train station and down a few back streets. Eventually though Kath tracked it down only for us to find it closed – as the Frommer’s Tuscany Guide said it would be on a Tuesday! Moral to the story – always read to the end of the blurb. This excursion was the basis for my earlier comment that Pisa looks better from up high as at ground level the route we took was pretty grotty with lots of rubbish on the ground, graffiti on walls and decaying buildings. Admittedly the environs around train stations and universities in many cities may not be the best but these were decidedly ugly. Still a holiday is about seeing all sides of a country so it was an experience to see a contrast from the usual tourist haunts.

The long walk back in the heat also made the gelato at La Bottega del Gelato all the more enjoyable – although I think even Liz had to admit that her choice of chocolate mousse and meringue flavour (tasted just like uncooked meringue) was perhaps a little too sickly even for her.

There was time for a final visit to the Campo dei Miracoli at about 4.30pm to do some last minute souvenir shopping before wearily winding our way back to Casaveccia where we had the usual antipasti platter for dinner. It was early to bed for all (after the latest instalment of Glee for Kath an me of course) in readiness for a big day in Florence on Wednesday.

Wednesday 9th June

We were up bright and early (well Liz wasn’t too bright) but still didn’t get away and on the road to Firenze until about 8.40am. Jane initially calculated a 20 minute trip but she hadn’t taken into account peak hour traffic so it was about 9.30am when we pulled into the big free parking lot at Piazzale Michelangelo. The parking lot is high above Firenze just on the south side of the River Arno and so commands a spectacular panoramic view over the river to the city skyline. Landmarks such as the Ponte Vecchio, Duomo and Santa Croce are all easily visible. Why is the parking free...? ’cause it’s such a long walk into the centre of town. The steep walk down from Piazzale Michelangelo does not bode well for the return journey later in the afternoon.

First stop is Galleria del’Accademia where we have pre-booked tickets for a 10.30am entry. Arriving at 10.05am we are pleased to be allowed in at about 10.15am. We made the conscious decision not to visit Galleria degli Uffizi, which is by far the most acclaimed art gallery in Italy, exhibiting works of all the Italian greats such as Botticelli, Raphael, Carravaggio etc, because it is just too big and would have bored Liz to death. Besides it is an excuse for Kath and me to come back on our own one day and spend some time there.

Anyway back to the Galleria del’Accademia which is much smaller but has one great asset as its claim to fame – Michelangelo’s statue of David. After looking through the first little exhibit room of primarily religious based paintings (I’m getting to the stage of “seen one Assumption, Crucifixion, Temptation, seen them all”) you walk into a larger and longer gallery full of marble statues with David at the end under a large domed roof. I have to say I was very impressed. On the walk down the gallery towards David there are several of Michelangelo’s unfinished works in progress which show the transformation from roughly hewn solid marble block to immaculately smooth finished surfaces. As for David he is huge, especially his right hand which does look too big for the rest of his body and is apparently a visual effect employed by Michelangelo as the statue was originally designed to be placed on a much higher plinth that it now stands on and was to improve the perspective – I’m no expert so I’ll just go with that explanation and marvel at the detail that Michelangelo was able to impart on a huge lump of stone. The muscle structures and veins for example are fantastic, as are the (large) hands and feet. Often acclaimed as the world’s greatest ever statue, who am I to disagree. Many people, including me, were easily able to stare at it for ages and see different nuances from different angles. In fact Kath spent several minutes sitting on a bench behind him staring at his perfectly formed bum (I think I may have overheard her whispering to Liz something about how it reminded her of me).

After ogling David we moved on to an interesting gallery full of plaster casts that sculptors used as guides before embarking on taking chisels to very expensive slabs of marble.

The most pleasant surprise of this relatively small museum though was the gallery of historical musical instruments and which was something Liz could appreciate. They had a good collection of early harpsichords, pianos and string and woodwind instruments along with an interactive display – we all enjoyed that. After a few more small galleries of religious paintings it was time to leave and head to the Duomo (Cathedral remember) with its huge dome. Unfortunately there are no photos from the Galleria del’Accademia as cameras are not allowed.

The outside of the Duomo is magnificent with an intricate and colourful marble facade and imposing entrances. Inside is less exciting though, as the architecturally impressive structure is fairly bland in comparison with many of the other Cathedrals we have seen.

 

The main attraction though is the chance to climb up inside the towering dome to the base of the white marble lantern on top of the dome. If yesterday’s climb up the Tower of Pisa had raised the heart rate slightly, talking the 463 steps up Firenze’s Duomo was positively breathtaking (literally – it even comes with a “don’t climb if you have a heart condition" warning). The narrow stone steps on the first section seem to go on forever and then suddenly you emerge inside the cathedral onto a narrow gallery that skirts the base of the dome so you are directly below Vasari’s massive Fresco of the Last Judgement – about the only colourful thing inside the cathedral. Back into another tunnel and the steep climb to the top of the dome continues. The steps become narrower and steeper and you are conscious that the roof above you is angled in sympathy with the roofline of the dome. Finally a climb up a few metal rungs through a small manhole and you are standing on top of Firenze! (with slightly wobbly legs). At first I thought it was quiet at the top with everyone mesmerised by the views, but in reality it was taking everyone a minute to get enough breath back to talk. But the views are nonetheless spectacular and, just like the Tower of Pisa, unencumbered by tall safety rails. Leaning over the rail to take photos the people below really did look like ants. Much to her credit Kath came with us to the top and even stood away from the central column to have her photo taken. The walk down was decidedly less strenuous! Well worth the 8 euros for Kath and me, especially as the ticket seller looked at Liz and said “you don’t pay, save it for an ice cream later” – I hope that she doesn’t expect that that long blonde hair is going to get her into nightclubs for free in 8 years time (dread the thought).

 

The walking and climbing warranted a gelato so we set off in search of purportedly the best gelataria in Italy (according to our guide book – another free gelato for the author when in town). The quickest route was through the Piazza della Repubblica which is a large open courtyard surrounded by Trattorias and many beautiful sculptures in bronze and marble, including one of the two copies of David. Arriving at the Vivoli gelataria, not only are we pleased to get there through the maze of small streets but we are ecstatic that there is somewhere to sit down! Liz has not always made the best choices with her gelato and the chocolate mousse/chocolate chip combo she goes for this time is also looking a bit over the top. I go for chocolate and banana and Kath for chocolate hazelnut and coffee. I can’t say whether it’s the best in Italy, but it’s the best I’ve had so far – and as an added bonus Kath and I got to finish off Liz’s, whose chocolate eyes were too big for her chocolate stomach.

Our last sightseeing target was Piazza Santa Croche and its Gothic church which houses the tombs of several of Italy’s Renaissance celebrities such as Michelangelo, Dante, Machiavelli and Galileo. There were also many carved marble headstones set into the floor of the church. Many of these were now roped off as years of foot traffic over them has worn away much of the detailed relief so only outlines of the occupants below are now visible. Several other crypts in the church housed beautiful stained glass windows (we even found an Elizabeth window), frescos and elaborate tombs.

Leaving the Santa Croce church delivered yet another pleasant surprise – the School of Leather (not founded by Jack Black). Firenze is famous for its leather products and seeing the quality at the School of Leather it’s not surprising. The school is attached to the church as it was originally set up by the Franciscan Monks to provide education in a trade for the poor and disadvantaged, including orphans. The orphans had to stop when child labour was outlawed but the school has continued. We spent almost an hour watching some of the craftsmen at work and looking through the beautiful items for sale. For the ladies, the handbags in particular were something special. Kath pointed out a couple (unpriced) in a display cabinet that she quite liked and when I saw a lady putting some more stock in the cabinet I asked what price range they were in. Well the quite nice yellow bag was a modest $700 and the rather nice yellow crocodile bag was a not so modest $5,700 – I was about to offer to buy the crocodile bag when Kath said she didn’t really LOVE it so who was I to argue.

It was now after 6pm and the long steep walk back to the car loomed in front of us but not before a visit to several of the leather shops lining the Piazza Di Santa Croche. I tried on some beautiful brown shoes but unfortunately they didn’t have my size and Kath and Liz walked away with leather belts but if money and luggage space had been no object there were some lovely things to be had. I think that was the case for one American family we saw in a couple of the shops who were buying leather jackets and suitcases and seemed to be treated as regulars by the shop owners – they had been in Firenze for 2 weeks!

The walk back took us past Ponte Vecchio, the famous bridge with shops protruding from its sides and an above ground enclosed gallery which allowed the gentry to cross the bridge without having to mingle with the peasants. Unfortunately there was some restoration work underway so it probably didn’t look at its best but I got the impression that it is a bit of a ramshackle hotchpotch at the best of times. It was nonetheless interesting to have walked across it and seen all of the small jewellery shops that line each side. Most interesting was that it was closing time and all the shops were putting up their beautifully varnished wood shutters.

We were expecting the walk to Piazzale Michelangelo to be hard going after so much walking and so many steps already pounded today – and we were right! A cold bottle of water at the top of the steps, a quick listen to a couple of American buskers playing guitar and a last survey of the city as the sun started to set helped us recover before we asked Jane to take us home. Less traffic meant that we were home in about 20 minutes. I did try refuelling at a 24 hour petrol station but at the first one they didn’t have many bowsers and the guy on the scooter in front couldn’t seem to make up his mind what he was doing so I moved on to the second petrol station where I couldn’t find the pay station, the third station’s credit card machine at the bowser wouldn’t accept my card but was no doubt trying to tell me to do something that I didn’t understand and the fourth petrol station I just drove on by deciding I had plenty of petrol!

We arrived home at about 8.30pm, exhausted but having had a great day! A cold beer/wine/pineapple juice later, a nice dinner and putting our sore feet up certainly helped and we were all in bed about 11pm.
Tomorrow is going to be a rest day to recover from the last two days – after all it is supposed to be a holiday!

Thursday 10th June
As planned, today was very much a rest day. Woke up around 9am, had breakfast at about 10.30am, played Trivial Pursuit, read, brought the diary up to date and that was pretty much about it! All the dogs came around at various stages to say hello – Baffo the Schnauzer, Prima the Chocolate Labrador and the unnamed and unidentified one.

Such a busy day brought on a healthy appetite so we decided to go to Trattoria La Baracchina which we didn’t get to on Tuesday - Vicky kindly booked a table for us so we wouldn't miss out - again, the benefit of a local "minder". We arrived “early” at 8.15pm to avoid the rush and thankfully we did as by 9.30pm it was packed. Trying a few local specialties for entree we had a plate of mixed crostini (toasted breads with various toppings) and deep fried sage leaves with an anchovy filling – interesting concept that I have yet to see on Masterchef but it tasted great. Main course was something Kath and I have been missing – a 500g medium rare T Bone steak with salad! Liz had her customary pasta. Deserts were a Panna Cotta for me, Liz had her new found love Crème Caramel and Kath had almond biscotti which came with a glass of liquor to dip it into. Everyone chose well and the service was very friendly (the head waiter patiently translated everything on the menu).

Well its almost 11pm. Liz is upstairs reading the last 20 pages of the last Harry Potter book which she has knocked off in a week, Kath is also reading and I am about to upload the blog before bed.

Ciao.